The Kingdom of Lesotho is probably never going to make it onto anyone’s bucket list. To say that this tiny African country is ‘off the beaten path’ would be a massive understatement; and yet, for some reason I’ve been there twice. In a series of circumstances that I’m still struggling to understand, the traveling circus that pays my bills once asked me to spend an entire month in The Kingdom in the Sky. As it turned out, though, that was just enough time to see everything. I managed to visit every notable restaurant in the capital city of Maseru, and even picked up fine dining from the country’s only drive-thru window.
Preparing for this trip was an adventure in itself, since it’s nearly impossible to find current travel information. Lesotho normally merits just a few pages in the back of a South Africa guidebook, and any websites you stumble across are sure to be out of date. Things don’t get any easier once you actually arrive— like the one afternoon I decided to visit the country’s tourism information center, only to discover that it was just a kiosk on the second floor of the Pioneer Mall. To be fair, the lovely woman on duty was as helpful as she could be, although she couldn’t actually give me a tourist guide, since she only had one copy.
With no guides available, and absolutely no tourist infrastructure in sight, I had no choice but to set off on my own, self-driving through this fascinating little country. And just in case anybody else out there ever finds themselves in a similar position, I put together this short list of Lesotho highlights. Happy traveling!
Basotho Hat
Most people enter Lesotho by driving in from South Africa. This is probably because the Kingdom’s tiny speck of an airport may not have electricity or running water on any given day. Crossing the Maseru Bridge will either involve a 5-minute delay or a 5-hour wait, depending on how many trucks and minibus taxis are queued up ahead of you. But just a few blocks beyond Customs, you’ll be rewarded with a glimpse of the famous Basotho Hat, a building modeled after the locals’ iconic headwear.
You’d think that such a unique structure would make an ideal tourist information center, but the Hat is basically just a souvenir shop now. Still, it’s unthinkable to come all the way out here and not stop in, especially when you can pick up handmade baskets and crafts for a fraction of what you’d pay on the other side of the border.
Thaba Bosiu
On your first trip to Lesotho, you should definitely plan to make a trip out to Thaba Bosiu. This place is the cultural home of the Basotho people, a secluded hill valley which provided shelter during several decades of tribal wars. For modern visitors, this tourist attraction is just as welcoming— it’s one of the rare sites with a paved parking lot, a functioning restaurant and cafe… plus running water in the bathrooms!
While the museum might look small, this place is a visitor’s best chance to learn the history of the Kingdom, and examine hand-made Basotho artifacts up close. An English-speaking guide gives a great tour of a reconstructed village, affording a chance to see how his people used to live… or for some of them, how they still do.
Ha Kome Cave Houses
Just a few miles down the road from Thaba Bosiu, you can venture off the beaten path to meet some of these families in person. According to the promotional materials, the cave houses of Ha Kome have been continuously occupied for nearly two hundred years. And even though logic might tell you that these half-dozen families probably just walk to the nearest village to pick up their daily necessities, talking to these rugged individualists still makes for a pretty unique encounter.
While you won’t technically need a four-wheel drive to make it down to Ha Kome, it’s a good idea to have one. The visitor center is tucked away down a long dirt trail, and you’ll have to clear a seat for one of the guides to show you the road in. But even with all the white-knuckle driving, Ha Kome is still a ‘must-do’ stop on any Lesotho itinerary.
Ha Baroana Rock Paintings
And if you feel like venturing even further out of your comfort zone, set aside a day to visit the hidden rock paintings of Ha Baroana. Hundreds of years ago, itinerant bushmen must have taken shelter underneath these riverside cliffs, and they passed the time by documenting a successful hunt. After a visit here, it’s hard to say what’s more amazing— that this remote location was discovered at all, or that the paintings have been left open to the elements ever since. There’s absolutely no protection in place, so guests can walk right up and examine the art.
A guide is essential for a trip out to Ha Baroana— the “road” to the visitor’s center actually crosses an active cow pasture, and if you haven’t called ahead, there probably won’t be anyone on duty to receive you. Be sure to watch your step on the precarious trek down to the riverside… the cliffs are steep!
Maletsenyane Falls
If you’re up for venturing out just a little further, the hill country of Semonkong will offer another great opportunity to practice your four-wheeling skills. If you’re coming all the way out here, it’s best to make a weekend out of it, and book a room at one of the local lodges. I guess it’d be possible to make it out and back in a single day, but the country’s unimproved “highways” just aren’t safe enough to drive at night, or in poor weather.
But don’t let the distance deter you— once you finally arrive, after slipping and sliding down the dirt entrance road, you’ll be rewarded by the sight of Maletsenyane Falls, the second-highest waterfall in all of Africa.
And even though the scenic view might vary based on local weather conditions, it’s sure to be absolutely breathtaking.
If you go to Lesotho, you should know:
-Don’t bother looking for a place to change currency— there aren’t any. The South African Rand is accepted everywhere at a 1:1 exchange rate with Lesotho’s currency, and you’ll get your change back in Maloti. If you bring a credit card, though, most places outside of Maseru won’t know what to do with it.
-If you’re relying on a GPS to get around, you should be aware that farm roads and horse trails will be marked on your map as “roads”… which can lead to some interesting adventures! And for some inexplainable reason, the Google Maps app works just fine in Lesotho, but Apple Maps loses functionality once you cross the South African border. Go figure?