2015 was a pretty good year for New Zealand.
Sir Peter Jackson had finally concluded his “Lord of the Rings” and “The Hobbit” movies, films which did wonders for the country’s tourism industry. In October, the All Blacks national team went on to capture the Rugby World Cup. And after Lonely Planet magazine named Wellington the “Coolest Little Capital in the World,” the country found itself thrust into the global spotlight.
And of course, 2015 was the year that the traveling circus dispatched my family and me to New Zealand on a multi-year engagement.
By that point in our world tour, I have to admit, I’d become somewhat jaded. Though, when we finally touched down after a wind-buffeted descent, even I had to admit that the place really did appear to live up to its billing. First impressions matter… and even through a fog of jet lag, the city of Wellington did seem pretty cool. Strolling down Cuba Street on our very first people-watching expedition, we were rewarded with a bumper crop of hipsters. One young man in particular stole the show, walking barefoot in the rain with a well-behaved pet rat perched on his shoulder.
No doubt about it, the city of Wellington was definitely cool… and the only problem was, we weren’t.
See, whenever someone crosses the magical age of 30, they forfeit any remaining claims to coolness. Such was the case with me and my troupe— and in light of this cold, hard fact, the traveling circus that pays my bills wisely decided against booking us lodging in the city proper. Instead, we set down roots in the next closest suburb— Lower Hutt.
Logically, geography being what it was, we could only conclude that our latest temporary home must have been the “Coolest Little Suburb in the World”. Never mind that 20-minute commute— over time, we came to realize that Lower Hutt was a pretty decent place to set down our stuff for a couple years. So just in case anybody else ever finds themselves following in our footsteps— touching down in the most remote country in the southern hemisphere, and inclined to venture even further off the beaten path— I set aside a few minutes to catalogue some highlights.
In a world that seems like it’s gone and paved itself over, it’s nice to know there are still a few green spaces out there. The Hutt River Trail is exactly what it sounds like— a long walking trail that winds along the banks of the Hutt River. As an added bonus, on weekends the car park will transform itself into a surprisingly impressive farmer’s market.
In the suburbs, it’s perfectly acceptable for a chain restaurant to fill the crucial role of a local neighborhood pub. After all, there’s no judgement out here! Our “go-to” spot on High street was Brew’d on Boulcott, a great place for a quick dinner on busy evenings. Never mind that the place didn’t really offer takeaways— the staff always let us carry out our orders on loaner crockery. My personal favorite was their Ceasar salad… although after it mysteriously disappeared from the menu, I was so distraught that I just couldn’t bring myself to return that last bowl.
Nine years and a couple of continents later, we’re still carrying it around with us. Sorry about that, Brew’d. We’ll get it back to you someday.
But what visitors often forget is, it takes massive amounts of rain to keep New Zealand’s landscapes so green. In these wet and windy conditions, it’s essential to have a couple of indoor activities on standby. The Dowse Museum is just one idea— despite its small size, the museum does a great job of rotating exhibits, so there’s always something new. And when you’ve had enough culture, the Queensgate Shopping Center— the only actual mall in this part of the country— is just a short sprint across the road.
Although options for retail therapy may be a tad more limited than in Wellington’s Central Business District, you can still get a slice of local color by stopping into Lower Hutt’s favorite party supply store, Pete’s Emporium. As many times as I’ve been to Pete’s, I’ve never been able to leave the place empty-handed. And even though it may sound illogical in a city with so many things to do, one of the locals’ favorite activities is just to sit around in cafes, nursing flat white coffees for hours on end. In this neck of the woods, there’s no better place to kill time than the Janus Bakery. Be sure to try the gingerbread, and tell them I sent you.
But when it comes to cool activities, let’s face it, sometimes the smallest ones in the family can get overlooked. This is never a problem in Lower Hutt, where there’s always something on for the tikes. On “fine” days, you can slap on the SPF 50 and head over to the mega-playground at Avalon Park. It’s a free, open place where the kids can run wild for hours on end. But on those occasions when rain spoils your picnic plans, there’s no need to despair. You can alway check in to JungleRama, an indoor recreation facility that bears a strong resemblance to an overgrown McDonald’s play place. Naturally, the kids always love it. But while these family-friendly activities are available year-round, you should always check the local fish wrap newspapers for any other seasonal events. For example, every December, the locals embark on a pilgrimage to this guy’s driveway, where a $2 charitable donation grants admission to a moderately impressive Christmas light display.
Yes, Lower Hutt may be fated to stand in Wellington’s shadow… but this suburb has so much going for it, it’s become a destination in its own right. And in my humble opinion, at least, Lower Hutt has definitely earned the title of the “Coolest Little Suburb in the World.”